Posts Tagged ‘Bordeaux’
Red Rivière
Fronsac 2006, Château de la Rivière ($29.95, 11588348)
Merlot (83%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%), Cabernet Franc (5%) and Malbec (5%). Alcoholic fermentation and maceration lasted four weeks and took place in temperature-controlled concrete and stainless steel vats. Malolactic fermentation took place in new barrels. Matured 15 months in French oak barrels, 40% new (with six months on the lees) and 60% second or third passage. 13% ABV.
Primary nose dominated by ripe cassis and blackberry with spice, cedar, dark earth and oak in the background. Denser and heavier than expected but saved by juicy acidity. The sweet, ripe, even a bit brambly fruit is shot through with firm, chewy tannins that still need a year or two to resolve but give the long finish a velvety texture. (Buy again? Fans of big Merlot-based Bordeaux needn’t hesitate but I wouldn’t buy this in preference to a more refreshing and digeste wine like the organic Côtes de Francs from Château du Puy.)
It comes as a shock to realize that this is the first bottle of Château de la Rivière I’ve tasted in over a decade. While I wouldn’t call the 2006 parkerized, compared with my memory of its more appealingly austere and nuanced siblings from the 1980s and ’90s, it does strike me as a step in that bigger-is-better direction.
New arrivals from Glou (4/5)
Founded in 2008, Domaine des Trois Petiotes farms organically and, since the fall of 2012, biodynamically. The name refers to the owners’ three daughters but also to the three one-hectare parcels – respectively planted with Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc – that comprise the estate’s holdings. Production is entirely red, though plans are afoot to make whites from a plot of soon-to-be-planted Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Sémillon, Muscadelle and Colombard vines.
Côtes de Bourg 2010, Domaine des Trois Petiotes ($32.20, Glou, 6 bottles/case)
Malbec (45%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc (25%) from vines averaging 35 to 40 years old. The grapes are manually harvested, mechanically destemmed and lightly crushed. Alcoholic fermentation in fiber vats lasts two to four weeks and uses indigenous yeasts and no temperature control with one pump-over or punch-down a day. The grapes are subsequently pressed with a manual vertical press. Matured 12 months (on average) in a mix of one- to three-year-old barrels with one or two rackings and occasional stirring. The wine is unfiltered and unfined. Sulphur dioxide is used but sparingly. 13.6% ABV.
Like sticking your nose in a berry farmer’s dirty laundry bin: earth, compost/barnyard, sweat, cassis. Medium-bodied with a velevty texture, ripe fruit, raspy tannins and enough acidity. The strong finish and a lingering astringency of the tooth-coating kind. Seemed a little rustic or maybe reductive. Worth revisiting in six months or a year. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Côtes de Bourg 2009, En attendant Suzie, Domaine des Trois Petiotes ($40.75, Glou, 6 bottles/case)
A blend of Malbec (70%) and Merlot (30%). Vinification is as for the basic wine, except the destemming is manual and the wine is fermented and matured in barrels for 24 months. 13.3% ABV.
Clean nose of slightly jammy red fruit and spice. A silky-textured mouthful of ripe cassis and kirsch that’s finely structured and showing some depth. The wine’s tannins come to the fore on the finish, giving it a velvet astringency. Definitely a Bordeaux, not a Cahors. Enjoyable now but with the balance and structure to age and improve. If I owned a restaurant, this would be on the wine list. (Buy again? Yes.)
MWG March 21st tasting (6/6): Four “cuvées for cellaring”
Well, that’s what Cellier called them.
Pessac-Léognan 2009, Château Larrivet Haut-Brion ($50, 11378341)
The estate is distant from and unrelated to Château Haut-Brion. Michel Rolland has been hired as a consultant. This 2009 is reportedly 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot from vines averaging 25 to 30 years old. Manually harvested and sorted. Fermented on a parcel by parcel basis in temperature-controlled (30ºC) stainless steel tanks, with daily pump-overs and rack-and-returning. Macerated from three to five weeks. Transferred to French oak barrels (50% new, 50% second vintage) for malolactic fermentation and maturation, which lasts a total of 18 months. Fined with egg whites and lightly filtered before bottling. 13% ABV.
Textbook Médoc nose: cedar, graphite, plum, cassis. Rich and suave in the mouth. Upfront fruit and dark minerals smooth the underlying tannins. The sweet-ripe finish has a lingering astringency. On the one hand, a balanced, well-made wine with some apparent depth, though pretty primary for now. On the other hand, it’s modern and a bit cookie-cutter. Wine of the flight for most people around the table. (Buy again? If in the market for a $50 Bordeaux, maybe.)
Priorat 2007, Costers Vi de Guarda, Genium Celler ($45, 11896527)
A blend of 50% Carignan, 30% Grenache, 10% Merlot and 10% Syrah from nearly 100-year-old vines. A 48-hour cold soak is followed by 30-day fermentation (at 29 to 30ºC) and maceration in small stainless steel tanks. Subsequently transferred to new French oak casks for 14 months for malolactic fermentation and maturation. Bottled unfiltered. 15.5% ABV.
Complex, savoury, evolving nose: rubber, celery salt, dried salted plums, sawed wood and slate, then soy sauce and smoke, then candied red berries, cedar and Asian spice. Intense, dry and heady. Lots of character. Dense, even chewy fruit, 2×4 tannins and souring acidity. There’s breadth and length galore but not much depth, at least for now. Blackberry tea finish. Hidden by the extract, thick layer of oak and heavy structure, the alcohol is felt more than tasted. A monolithic mouthful, not for the faint of heart. (Buy again? Not my style.)
Ribera del Duero 2006, Finca Villacreces ($37, 11807547)
A blend of 95% Tinto Fino (aka Tempranillo) and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. After alcoholic fermentation, maceration and clarification, transferred to French oak barrels for malolactic fermentation and 16 months’ maturation. 14.5% ABV.
Cinders, plum, faint sawed wood. Sweet attack, darker finish. Ripe fruit, ash and slate flavours. Big but balanced, with bright acidity and fine firm tannins. Needs time to digest the oak and, one hopes, gain complexity. (Buy again? Unlikely.)
Pauillac grand cru classé 2009, Château Haut-Bages Libéral ($64.75, 11395909)
A cinquième cru classé, actually. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot from vines averaging 35 years of age. Manually harvested. Each parcel is fermented and macerated for 18 to 24 days in concrete or stainless steel vats. Matured for 16 months in French oak barrels, 40% new. 13% ABV.
Initially closed and stinky but developing cassis, cedar and sawed wood aromas with an unexpected floral note. Fluid and relatively supple, the structure cushioned by ripe fruit. Good acidity and integrated oak. Tannins linger through the menthol-scented finish. Primary but accessible. While it could be passing through a phase, surprisingly unnuanced, unlayered and undeep for a $65 bottle. (Buy again? Unlikely.)
While this was the most popular flight of the evening, it prompted comments along the lines of “I liked the wines but can’t see myself buying any of them” and “Not that I never drop $50 or $60 on a bottle, but these didn’t deliver the bang required for those kind of bucks.” Looking back at all six flights, others wondered whether such an uninspiring lineup didn’t imply that the Cellier concept had indeed run out of steam. In any case, RIP.
November 3rd MWG tasting: report
To staunch the flow of carping about the infrequency of updates to this site, here are some quick notes – little more than a transcription, really – on the wines in the Mo’ Wine Group’s latest tasting. With one exception, the bottles are from the November 3rd Cellier release and, for once, many of them are still available.
THREE FRENCH SPARKLERS
Montlouis, Brut non-dosé, Méthode traditionnelle, François Chidaine ($22.95, 11537049)
Yellow apple, hint of citrus peel, gaining floral and winey notes as it warmed and breathed. Tiny, soft bubbles, fruity but dry. Acid-bright and clean. Long minerally finish with a faint bitter edge. (Buy again? Yes.)
Crémant du Jura 2008, Domaine Labet Père et fils ($20.80, 11549162)
Chalkier nose showing a little oxidation. A bit enigmatic. Simple upfront, the flavours tending to lemon and quartz, but maintaining a presence, a grip, after the flavours fade. Lingering sourness. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Vouvray, Brut, Domaine Huet ($26.95, 11537022)
Oxidized apple peel with notes of honey, ash and peach. Strong bead. Rich and dense with a strong current of acidity. Fruit slow-fades to minerals on the long finish. (Buy again? Yes.)
The two Loire wines were winners: the Chidaine lighter, fresher and full of immediate appeal; the Huet richer, slower to open up, built for the long haul. The Labet (a new arrival not in the Cellier release) was good but Tissot’s crémant at about the same price is even better.
THREE CHAMPAGNES
Champagne, Terre de Vertus, Premier cru, Larmandier-Bernier ($71.00, 11528011)
A blanc de blancs (100% Chardonnay) with zero dosage. Straightforward nose (apple, yeast, hint of lemon at first) that became more complex (“cream soda,” said one taster; “dried coconut” chimed in another). Light, elegant, clean. Delicate bubbles. Quite dry and long. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Champagne, Tradition Grand cru, Brut, Égly-Ouriet ($80.00, 11538025)
Mostly Pinot Noir. Nose of apple, toast and pastry cream, initially a little anonymous but slowly gaining character. Fine bead. Initially light and elegant, almost to a fault, but gaining complexity and depth in the glass. Pure and long but none of us got Phaneuf’s “multidimensionnel … doté de ces multiples couches de saveurs qui sont la marque des grands vins.” (Buy again? Probably not.)
Champagne, Grand cru, Blanc de Noirs, E. Barnaut ($46.25, 11152958)
Classic champagne nose of bread and hazelnuts with notes of oxidized apple. Winey texture enlivened by assertive bubbles. Clean and vibrant if a little short on depth and complexity. Unlike the other two, did not improve in the glass. (Buy again? Maybe.)
All were good but none knocked our socks off. The Barnaut’s QPR isn’t bad but it lacked some of the finesse of the other two. The group was evenly split when it came to declaring a preference between the fresher Larmandier-Bernier and the richer Égly-Ouriet.
FOUR JURA WHITES
L’Étoile 2008, Domaine de Montbourgeau ($21.90, 11557541)
Chardonnay with a dash of Savagnin. Complex nose with a sourish edge: oxidized apple, “caramel nuts,” “golden raisins in marc,” “fresh figs,” silage and a whiff of cheese. Winey yet fluid, fruit balanced by minerals and acid. Long, flavourful finish. The very model of a Jura white. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Côtes du Jura 2009, Fleurs, Domaine Labet Père et Fils ($22.90, 11556952)
Chardonnay that, unlike many traditional Jura whites, is not allowed to oxidize. The result here is a fairly pure expression of the grape variety. Fruity on the attack, round in the mouth, buttressed by a welcome acidity. Good finish with lingering notes of straw, honey and spice. (Buy again? Sure.)
Arbois 2009, Les Bruyères, Bénédictine et Stéphane Tissot ($35.75, 11542139)
100% Chardonnay. By far the most complex nose of the bunch: mushroom, turpentine, gunflint and sesame along with the expected apple and spice. Smooth and fluid on the palate, the sweet-seeming attack quickly giving way to layers of flavour and a rich fruitiness that belies the wine’s dryness. Long and balanced. A few years in the bottle will do it a world of good. (Buy again? Yes.)
Côtes du Jura 2005, Les Compères, Essencia ($25.95, 11544003)
100% Chardonnay. A bit of an oddball. Appealing if surprising nose of strawberry napoleons (fruit, puff pastry and pastry cream all there). Typically jurassien on the palate, a fruity density underpinned by refreshing acidity. Fairly long, nut-scented finish. Simple but fun. (Buy again? If looking for a white vin plaisir, sure.)
A popular flight, with just about everyone liking all the wines. Several of us considered the Montbourgeau the winner, a classic Jura white with a great QPR. The Labet was the closest to a non-Jura Chardonnay. The Tissot needs time but has potential. The Essencia was unlike any other white I’ve tasted, not that there’s anything wrong with that.
TWO LIGHTER REDS
Arbois 2009, Poulsard, Vieilles vignes, Domaine Rolet Père et Fils ($19.95, 11537090)
And now for something completely different. Pale transparent red, the Jura’s traditional corail (I’ve seen darker rosés). Double-take nose of strawberry, hay and black pepper (detractors in search of descriptors were more inclined to reach for body excretions). Light-bodied, high acid yet, oddly, intensely fruity. Tannins light but raspy. Stemmy finish. Cries out for some charcuterie. (Buy again? I just might.)
Veneto 2007, Primofiore, Giuseppe Quintarelli ($54.25, 11542518)
Take a green bell pepper, stuff it with spicy rice and meat and roast it in a tomato sauce: that’s the nose of this wine. Medium-bodied, fluid, with a perfumy mid-palate, light but firm tannins and just enough acidity. Long, spicy finish. Not particularly deep but full of character and unlike any other red I’ve encountered. (Buy again? Tempted but the price is dissuasive.)
A love-it-or-hate-it-flight. Some tasters were horrified, even outraged by the Poulsard and had trouble believing that several of us actually derived pleasure from the wine. Opinions were almost as divided by the Quintarelli, richer and spicier but still with a streak of green. I enjoyed it but not to the point that I’d fork over $54 for another bottle. (Edit: The taster who took home the tail-end of the bottle reports: “At the Thursday tasting I left the Quintarelli in my glass until the end of the evening to see if it improved – and it did, by a bit, so I brought home what was left in the bottle, and tried it the next day – the harshness and green pepper had completely blown off, and it was far softer and fruitier. Not that I would go running to drop $55 on another bottle of it, but it’s nice to know that it just really needed to sit, and wasn’t a dud Quintarelli.”)
THREE LEFT-BANK RED BORDEAUX
Haut-Médoc 2008, Château d’Agassac ($26.95, 11188336)
Textbook left-bank Bordeaux. Nose of cedar, cassis and oak with green bell pepper and black pepper notes. Good balance of fruit, acid and tannins. Pure flavours. Longish though not particularly deep. (Buy again? If looking for an everyday red Bordeaux, sure.)
Médoc 2008, Château d’Escurac ($23.80, 11194584)
Meatier and greener nose than the Agassac’s, showing some pencil lead. Tight, tannic, austere. Cedary finish. A bit flat. Doesn’t cohere.Might be better in a year or two but, on the whole, this lacks appeal. (Buy again? No.)
Saint-Julien 2008, Clos du Marquis (Château Léoville Las Cases) ($59.74, 11184520)
Nothing like earlier vintages we’ve tried. Spice, green pepper and an elusive mustiness that had us wondering whether it was corked or scalped. Disjointed and harsh in the mouth. Probably an off bottle. (Buy again? Moot.]
This flight was something of a let-down, with the potentially most interesting bottle not up to scratch. Would that I’d had the budget to go with my original idea: Clos du Marquis, Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon and Dominus.
Quick takes
Spent some quality time with the Beaubien SAQ Sélection outlet’s wine-tasting station on the weekend. With the possible exception of the Gevrey, all are worth acquiring (though you might want to wait for next weekend’s rumoured $5-off-each-$50-spent sale).
Crozes-Hermitage 2009, Domaine Combier ($31, 11154980)
(saq.com lists this as the 2007 but the wine I tasted and the bottle I bought were indeed the 2009.)
100% organically farmed, manually harvested Syrah from three parcels. Completely destemmed. Spent 25 days in stainless steel fermentation vats, 12 months in newish oak barrels. 12.5% ABV.
Gorgeous nose of ripe red fruit, sandalwood, gingerbread spice. Shows young on the palate, the sweet fruit balanced by bright acid and light, tingly tannins. Flavours turn darker on the finish. Fleet and fluid yet somehow very present. Syrah may come deeper than this but not much purer, fresher or more engaging.
Gevrey-Chambertin 2007, Domaine Perrot-Minot ($65, 10919045)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir. Matured in oak barrels, 25% new, 37.5% one-year and 37.5% two-year. Unfiltered and unfined. 13.5% ABV.
Red berries, funk, leafmould and a hint of oak. Silky texture. Very dry. Seems structured more by acidity than tannins until you chew the wine. Light weight tending to ephemeral but surprisingly long. Needs time?
Margaux 2004, Château Labégorce ($42.75, 10546841)
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Fermented in concrete vats, matured 12-15 months in 35% new oak barrels. 12.5% ABV.
Cassis, blackberry, graphite and a little oak: will eventually develop a classic Margaux fragrance. Suave and structured, the tannins fine but still astringent. Medium-bodied, showing some depth, good balance and length. Enjoyable now but even better in a few years. Traditionally styled – quite the welcome change from some of its modern, New Worldish compatriots. These days, $40 for a Bordeaux of cru classé quality spells great QPR.
Maremma Toscana IGT 2009, Sinarra, La Fattoria di Magliano ($21.65, 11191447)
Partially destemmed Sangiovese (95%) and Petit Verdot (5%). Fermented in stainless steel. The must and skins are heated slightly after fermentation. Matured in concrete butts. Unfiltered. 13% ABV.
Lovely nose: candied black raspberries and a freshness evocative of mint or spring leaves. Sweet fruit, good acid. Fluid. Drying tannins linger. Vanilla note on finish. Overall impression of freshness. Modern but in a nice way. Drink now.
Priorat 2004, Clos de l’Obac, Costers del Siurana ($73, 10781808)
About one-third each Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon with some Syrah, Merlot and Carignan. Dry-farmed. Insecticide-free. 14.5% ABV.
Complex nose: dark fruit, leather, slate, kirsch. Full-bodied but not hot. Suave and balanced, the power held in reserve, the smooth surface belying the rigid structure and impenetrable depth. Showed some well-integrated oak as it warmed. Great aging potential. Imposing and impressive.
A bouquet of affordable red Bordeaux (right-bank edition)
Yet more notes – the last – from the under-$30 Bordeaux event. Arranged in order of increasing price. It wasn’t always clear whether the quoted private import prices were for restaurants or individuals, so check with the agency concerned before submitting your order.
Côtes de Castillon 2006, Cuvée Prestige, Château Vieux Monpezat ($16.90, 10844813)
Cassis, cigar box, hint of vanilla: classic. Smooth but grippy, with clean fruit, good balance and a long finish. Great QPR.
Puisseguin Saint-Émilion 2007, Château des Laurets ($18.25, 371401)
Merlot with about 20% Cabernet Franc. Estate acquired by Château Clarke owner Benjamin de Rothschild in 2003 and advised by Michel Rolland (microbullage !). Red fruit, spice and oak on the nose. Supple entry, pure fruit, subtle oak. Lingering mild astringency. Could use more focus and depth.
Premières Côtes de Blaye 2004, Château La Raz Caman ($18.60, 888578)
Around 2/3 Merlot and 1/4 Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance made up by Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Classic red Bordeaux nose: spicy plum, oak, tobacco. Clean and fruity attack. Supple tannins and bright acid structure the mid-palate. Shortish finish. Correct.
Lalande de Pomerol 2004, Château La Croix des Moines ($24.25, 973057)
Merlot with about 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Spent 14 months in barrels, 25% new. Sweet and sour cassis with toast and menthol notes. Plump fruit and tight tannins. Good length. Seems closed but promising.
Côtes de Francs 2005, Château Le Puy ($24.45, 709469)
Merlot with a little Cabernet Sauvignon and maybe a dash of Carmenère. Biodynamic and, going by the clarity, unfiltered and unfined. Engaging nose despite the hint of barnyard: cassis, herbs, candied plum, red meat. Smooth, medium bodied, lacy tannins. Savoury herbs and sweet fruit, turning a little tart on the long finish. Distinctive, authentic and delicious: a real winner.
Lalande de Pomerol 2007, Le Pavillon de Saint-Jacques ($27.39, 6 bottles/case, Plan Vin)
80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh and appealing nose: cassis, raspberries, green leaves and flowers. Round and smooth on the surface but with underlying tannins. Sweet berry fruit. Good length. Another winner.
Canon-Fronsac 2006, Candelaire, Château Lamarche-Canon ($32.75, 00912204)
90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Spent 16 months in oak barrels, 35% new. Toasty plum, black raspberry and spice. Rich and pure with tight, dense tannins and an oaky overlay. Long and well proportioned if a little monolithic for now: could use a couple of years in the cellar.
A bouquet of affordable red Bordeaux (left-bank edition)
More notes from the under-$30 Bordeaux event. Arranged in order of increasing price. It wasn’t always clear whether the quoted private import prices were for restaurants or individuals, so check with the agency concerned before submitting your order.
Côtes de Bourg 2007, Château Bujan ($18.60, 862086)
75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. Attractive nose of sweet cassis and graphite with floral and oak notes. Supple entry, pure fruit, subtle oak, raspy tannins, bright acid and a little astringency on the finish. Seems lighter than the 2005 and 2006 but no less appealing.
Bordeaux 2007, Marquis de Bordeaux ($20.85, 6 bottles/case, Raisonnance Inc.)
65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh nose of plum and cassis. Smooth and fluid attack. Good fruit and acid on the mid-palate though a bit oaky. Tannic finish. Not bad.
Bordeaux Supérieur 2005, Pavillon Rouge ($20.85, 6 bottles/case, Raisonnance Inc.)
Definitely not Château Margaux’s similarly named second wine. Blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Candied cassis and raspberry with tobacco scents. Pure and straightforward, more about fruit than structure. Herbs and tobacco scent the long finish. This would make a good bistro wine. A winner.
Bordeaux Supérieur 2007, Hyppos, Château Majoureau ($22.60, 6 bottles/case, Plan Vin)
About 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Spent 12 months in French and American oak barrels, a fraction of which were new. Red fruit and spice with oak hints. Smooth and silky, with pure, sweet fruit. Supple tannins, lingering finish. Vin plaisir. If I ran a restaurant, this would be on its wine list.
Graves 2001, Château d’Ardennes ($23.90, 869933)
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Cabernet Franc and less Petit Verdot. Cassis and raspberry with floral and subtle oak notes. Fresh and smooth, more medium- than full-bodied. Round on the mid-palate, showing pure fruit and a minerally undertow. Fine tannins and a credible finish. Elegant and enjoyable.
Pessac-Léognan 2005, Château de Cruzeau ($24.95, 113381)
Slightly more than half Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and a homoeopathic shot of Cabernet Franc making up the balance. Spent 12 months in barrels, about a third of which were new. Fresh, cedary nose dominated by cassis. Smooth and elegant albeit a little austere. Velvety tannins wrapped around a core of sweet fruit. Ashy minerals on the finish. Good but a little anonymous, like one of those B-movie heroes whose looks you can admire but whose name you can’t remember.
Pessac-Léognan 2005, Château de Rochemorin ($27.95, 743005)
About 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Spent 12 months in barrels, about a third of which were new. Dark fruit and oak with hints of cedar and wet earth. Tight and very dry. Muted fruit, unmuted oak. Long astringent finish. The potential’s there but this needs time.
Côtes de Bourg 2006, Château Falfas ($28.58, 6 bottles/case, Raissonance Inc.)
Biodynamically farmed Merlot (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Cabernet Franc (10%) and Malbec (5%). Spicy red fruit with a hint of oak. Supple and smooth, lively acid, sweet fruit, silky tannins and a caressing finish. Overall impression of freshness and elegance. A winner.
Saint-Estèphe 2007, Château La Croix ($29.30, 00048561)
About half Cabernet Sauvignon and a third Merlot, the balance made up by Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Textbook nose: cassis, cedar, tobacco, graphite, hint of oak. Plush fruit structured by fine, tight tannins and not masked by oak. Long finish. A decent $30 Médoc that will be even better in a year or three.
Pessac-Léognan 2006, L’Abeille de Fieuzal, Château de Fieuzal ($36.25, 10924338)
About 2/3 Merlot and 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Cabernet Franc. Beautiful nose: cassis, red plums, spice, tobacco, gravel, vanilla. Equally beautiful on the palate. Rich, ripe fruit and subtle oak structured by firm acid and tannins. Long but also broad and even deep. I’m not usually a fan of second wines but this is a winner.
A bouquet of affordable white Bordeaux
Quick takes on seven whites tasted at the recent (mostly) under-$30 Bordeaux event. As a group, less numerous and less interesting (i.e. more commercial) than the reds I tasted, notes on which will follow.
Bordeaux 2008, Sauvignon, Château Reynon ($22.85, 11170486)
Pungent nose dominated by Sauvignon Blanc (Sémillon forms only 15% of the blend): boxwood, grapefruit zest, quartz. Smooth entry, fruity mid-palate, zesty finish. Not deep but fresh and racy. Your classic white Bordeaux.
Entre-Deux-Mers 2009, Château Bonnet ($16.70, 83709)
50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon, 10% Muscadelle. Clean Sauvignon Blanc nose. Fruity but dry. Good acid. Fast-fade finish. Not particularly polished.
Pessac-Léognan 2007, Château Cruzeau ($23.50, 225201)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spent ten months in 35% new oak barrels. White grapefruit, minerals and ash. Fresh and balanced, chalky more than fruity, good length. Tasty.
Pessac-Léognan 2007. Château de Rochemorin ($24.95, 743013)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spent ten months in 35% new oak barrels. Elegant nose: lime and limestone. Minerally attack, fruity mid-palate, sourish finish. Clean and pure. Appetizing.
Premières Côtes de Blaye 2008, Château Bertinerie ($15.30, 00707190)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. White citrus, gooseberry. Lighter than others. Good acid and length. Sourish finish. Simple, restrained but with a certain elegance.
Premières Côtes de Blaye 2007, Château Haut Bertinerie ($24.95, 11095130)
100% Sauvignon Blanc. Spent several months in new oak barrels. A tracery of minerals butressed by fruit. Oak is very sotto voce. Good acid and length. Clean, balanced, elegant.
Sauternes 2006, Château Partarrieu ($43.50, Francs-Vins)
Crème brûlée and orange water nose. Smooth, creamy attack. Fluid, not overly sweet. Complex set of flavours ranging from subtle apricot to pronounced botrytis. Light but persistent finish. Very pleasant.
Chez La QV
Newly ensconced in an office cum salon de dégustation on Beaubien just east of St-Laurent, La QV hosted a tasting last week at which it and three other up-and-coming agencies presented a number of their wines, all available on a private-import basis. I’ve linked to the websites of the agencies that have them; for the other agencies’ contact info, see the Raspipav site. The prices are for individuals (restaurants pay slightly less) and include sales taxes.
Mâcon-Villages 2007, Domaine Rijckaert ($23.50, 12 bottles/case)
100% Chardonnay. Chalk and quartz, oats and a lactic note. Rich and smooth with a long, acid-tingly finish. Not particularly deep but flavourful and pure. Good QPR.
Côtes du Rhône 2009, Le Petit Piolas, Domaine la Fourmente ($17.50, 12 bottles/case)
75% Grenache, 25% Syrah, organically farmed. Winey/grapey nose: red fruit with hints of garrigue and milk chocolate. Medium-bodied, supple. Pure fruit and spice flavours, soft tannins. A CDR in the Beaujolais mould. Great everyday wine; if I owned a restaurant, this would be on its wine list.
Côteaux d’Aix en Provence 2006, Les Béatines, Domaine des Béates ($21, 12 bottles/case)
Grenache Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan, organically farmed. Lovely nose redolent of plum, spice and kirsch, gaining inky, mineral and tea notes with time in the glass. Suave and savoury, a core of sweet fruit wrapped in fine tannins. Shows some heat on the finish (14%).
Coteaux du Languedoc 2008, La Vista, Domaine Ribiera ($26.50, 6 bottles/case)
2/3 Grenache, 1/3 Carignan, organically farmed, indigenous yeasts. Dark fruit with notes of leather, violet and animale. Medium-bodied. Pure fuit. Round tannins. Long, bitter-edged finish. A bit austere but very appealing. The Carignan seems dominant, the wine coming across a little like a lighter version of Rouge Gorge’s eponymous cuvée. My red of the evening.
MON CAVISTE, CÖTÉ VIGNES
VDP des Côteaux de Peyrac 2008, Tersande blanc, Domaine des Homs ($20.98, 12 bottles/case)
100% Chardonnay, organically farmed. Quartz and spice with hints of lemon and dried herbs. Unctuous but kept from heaviness by strong acid. Clean. Flavour tending toward preserved lemon but avoiding tropical fruit. Long, dry finish.
VDP des Côteaux de Payrac 2008, Tersande rosé, Domaine des Homs ($20.53, 12 bottles/case)
A saignée method rosé made from organically farmed Grenache. Appealing nose of spice and strawberry. Fruitiness kept in check by acid and dryness. Minerally finish. Goes down easily. Lovely in its simple, unpretentious way.
Bourgogne 2007, Domaine Paul Pernot (around $30, 6 bottles/case)
100% Pinot Noir. Sees only old wood. Light, pinoty nose: red berries with forest floor and spice notes and the faintest hint of brown sugar. Light and fluid on the palate. Structured not much more than a Morgon or Moulin-à-Vent. Bright acid and fair length. Very dry. Not a lot there but what there is is very nice indeed.
Côtes du Marmandais 2006, Terra, Clos Cavenac ($23.33, 12 bottles/case)
30% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 13% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Fer Servadou and 7% Abouriou, biodynamically farmed. Complex nose with a leafy freshness: pure fruit, leather, freshly turned sod, hints of tar, cedar and animal. Medium-bodied. Round, smooth attack. Fruity mid-palate with mineral/earth undertones and mild tannins. Long, astringent finish. Bordeauxish but not a carbon copy. Enjoyable.
Mon Caviste also poured Clos Cavenac‘s 2007 Arradim ($22.58, 12 bottles/case), a blend of 70% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot and 10% Malbec. After considerable discussion, we decided the bottle was ever so slightly corked. Unfortunate because you could tell that the wine, with its soft tannins, velvety texture and pure fruit, had the makings of a easy-drinking winner.
Costières de Nîmes 2007, Cuvée Perrières, Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss ($28.29, 12 bottles/case)
Carignan (c. 40%), Grenache, Syrah and Mouvèdre, biodynamically farmed. Fresh, perfumy nose of plum, spice and fresh herbs. Sleek and elegant, structured as much by acid as by tannins. Kaleidoscopic flavour profile, with the Carignan’s earthiness and dry tannins coming out on the austere finish. A winner.
SUBLIME VINS & SPIRITUEUX
Touraine rosé 2009, Chant du Bois, Alain et Philippe Sallé ($19.95, 6 or 12 bottles/case)
100% Grolleau, farmed without chemicals or fertilizers. Natural yeasts. Peach, minerals and spice. Dry, minerally attack. Bright acid and light cherry fruit. Licorice-scented finish. Gains earthy notes with aeration. Tasty.
Touraine 2008, Sauvignon, Alain et Philippe Sallé ($20.50, 6 or 12 bottles/case)
100% Sauvignon Blanc, farmed without chemicals or fertilizers. Natural yeasts. Lime, gooseberry and minerals. Light, minerally with a fruity undercurrent and a rainwatery finish. Good though I prefer my SBs sharper and more focused.
Montello e Colli Asolani 2007, Chardonnay, Villa di Maser ($24.95, 6 bottles/case)
100% Chardonnay, farmed “eco-compatibly.” Lemon with a smoky/woody note. Light yet powerful, dry yet showing a sweet fruitiness. Flavours hard to pin down. Fruit fast-fades on the finish while bitterness lingers. Unusual, intriguing and quite different from a bottle tasted a couple of days later (tasting note to come).
Burgenland 2007, Impérial Weiss, Schloss Halbturn ($46.25, 6 bottles/case)
55% Sauvignon Blanc, 45% cask-aged Chardonnay. Green apple, boxwood, oats and a woody/oaky note. Rich and deep with acidity keeping it all fluid and balanced. Chalk and grapefruit pith linger though the long finish. Impressive, elegant and, yes, even a little imperious. My white of the evening.
LES SÉLECTIONS SOLY-LEBLANC
Côtes de Castillon rosé 2009, Château de Chainchon ($17.50, 12 bottles/case)
100% Cabernet Franc. Outgoing nose of strawberry and straw with earthy notes. Very dry and savoury. Fruity attack but mostly about minerals and tannins. Streaky acid. 13.5% alcohol and you can feel it. Unusual and interesting. More a food wine than a summer sipper.
Beaujolais-Villages 2009, Domaine de Sermezy ($19, 12 bottles/case)
Sappy raspberry and cherry, a bit simple. Supple, fruity and pure enough but not showing much depth, follow-through or personality. Vin de soif.
Saint-Joseph 2006, Jean-Luc Chaléat, Cave Saint-Désirat ($32.20, 6 bottles/case)
100% Syrah, made in lined concrete vats. Classic Syrah nose: black raspberry, smoke, tar, violets and animale with a bit of barnyard too. Pure fruit, fine tannins, good balance, silky texture, fair length. Not exactly thrilling but honest and certainly drinkable.
Saint-Joseph 2007, Septentrio, Cave Saint-Désirat ($37.45, 6 bottles/case)
100% Syrah given time in new oak casks. Classic Syrah nose again but more international, with chocolate, vanilla and smoke aromas added to the mix. Denser, more structured and more polished than the JLC, but with the oak now dominating. Good acid yet is there sufficient fruit to outlast the oak and tannins? Would be interesting to revisit in a year or two.
Brett happens 
Fall 2012 Cellier release: listing
with one comment
My copy of the fall issue of the SAQ’s Cellier magazine arrived today. As none of the other wine geeks I’ve spoken to have received their copies, as none of the local wine boards have any discussion of it or the associated releases, as the staff at the SAQ Sélection outlet I called seemed clueless about the releases and as SAQ.com currently has no mention of them, I’ve typed up the list of wines involved. You’ll find it after the jump.
The dates of the two Sélection releases are September 13 and 27. The Signature release is on September 20. (I cannot fathom why the dates are kept secret until a week or two before the first release, which greatly complicates the planning of Cellier tastings. The editorial staff must know the dates many weeks if not months in advance. Would it kill them to share that information with us? Announcing the dates and maybe the themes – not the wines – a month or so out might even create some sorely lacking buzz around the releases.)
The main theme is 2009 red Bordeaux. There’s also a handful of purportedly oyster-friendly whites, four non-Bordeaux reds for cellaring, a mini-vertical and a couple of big bottles.
Upmarket Bordeaux being fantastically overpriced, the Sélection releases focus mainly on lesser appellations; there are lots of cru bourgeois wines, Médocs and Haut-Médocs, Pomerol satellites, etc.
The alcohol levels are startlingly high. (In the list, I’ve boldfaced the 14%, 14.5% and 15% wines.) It’s telling that the only Bordeaux under 13% is also the only old wine in the bunch (the 1990 Château Les Ormes Sorbet). Yes, 2009 was a very ripe vintage but there’s obviously something else going on here (Parkerization? New Worldization? Global warming? All of the above?). Interestingly, none of the pricey Signature wines clock in at more than 13.5%.
The Mo’ Wine Group usually holds a tasting in conjunction with each Cellier release. This time around, I’m not sure. While it’s true that the group should probably be tasting more Bordeaux, on first glance I’m finding it hard to muster much enthusiasm for this lineup. Unfortunately, that’s beginning to seem like a trend: Cellier releases used to generate a lot of enthusiasm online and in the stores. These days, not so much.
UPDATE (2012-08-30): The “Bravo Bordeaux” listing is finally available on SAQ.com. Going by comments online and off (here, for example), I’m not the only person who finds it lacking.
Read the rest of this entry »
Written by carswell
August 23, 2012 at 17:31
Posted in Commentary, Events, News
Tagged with Bordeaux, Cellier