Posts Tagged ‘Under 13 percent’
Weeknight Sangiovese
Chianti 2014, Cetamura, Coltibuono ($14.95, 12693916)
Sangiovese (90%), Canaiolo (5%), Ciliegiolo (3%) and Colorino (2%) from vines grown in the subzones of the Chianti appellation. Fermented “traditionally” (whatever that means) and matured in stainless steel tanks. Aged briefly in bottle. 200,000 bottles made. Reducing sugar: 2.3 g/l. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Sélections Fréchette.
Cherry, spice, pencil shavings, terracotta, stems and a quick-to-dissipate horsey whiff of volatile acidity. Medium-bodied and fluid. The surface is pleasant but there’s not much depth. The lightly juicy fruit sours and dries on the mid-palate. Tame acidity and supple tannins provide a modicum of texture. If the flavours fade fast on the savoury finish, a tart stemmy/woody astringency lingers. While it doesn’t quite coalesce into a harmonious whole, doesn’t scream terroir and doesn’t deliver the kind of bang for the buck found in, say, the $23 La Ragnaie, it’s a decent enough weeknight Sangiovese and, hey, it runs less than $15 a bottle. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Two Pinot Noirs and an interloper
The teaser sent to MWG members prior to the tasting described this flight as “Two light-bodied reds. Same country, same grape variety. No other connections.” The third bottle was a last-minute addition, a new arrival (or maybe a restocking) generously donated by one of the group’s members.
Savoie 2014, Pinot Noir, Cuvée Gastronomie, Jean Perrier et Fils ($17.25, 00856997)
100% Pinot Noir. The grapes are manually harvested and pneumatically pressed. After clarification, thee must is transferred to temperature controlled (20°C) stainless steel tanks for three weeks’ alcoholic fermentation, followed by malolactic fermentation. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: LVAB.
Red berries and stems, slate, spice, earth and a hint of blood. One taster detected “endives.” Light-bodied and quite dry, with clean, bright fruit. Lightly astringent more than tannic. What minerals there are come out on the fair finish. A simple, supple, alpine wine that doesn’t scream Pinot Noir but is fresh and tasty enough. Not a keeper and should be drunk lightly chilled. Would have been a good candidate for the Without All flight. (Buy again? Sure.)
Alsace 2012, Rouge, Domaine Marcel Deiss ($26.35, 12185410)
100% Pinot Noir according to SAQ.com and the domaine’s Quebec agency; others claim it is a Pinot Noir-dominated field blend. Whatever the variety, the grapes come from biodynamically farmed vines. Manually harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts and regular punch-downs. Matured 12 months. Sees only stainless steel until bottling. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: A.O.C. & Cie.
Now we’re talking. As the French say, ça pinote! Blossoming nose of “cooked strawberries,” earth, leafmould and mushroom. Medium-bodied. Richer than the Perrier. In fact, denser and deeper than most Alsatian Pinot Noirs of my acquaintance. The fruit is juicy, the acidity smooth, the tannins supple. An earthy bass line rumbles nicely along though there aren’t the kind of high notes and overtones you can get with red Burgundies or Schueller’s sui generis Alsace PNs. Still, I’d gladly buy more of this suavely rustic wine. Carafe an hour or two and serve lightly chilled for best results. (Buy again? Yep.)
Langhe Nebbiolo 2009, Aurelio Settimo ($25.60, 12796616)
100% Nebbiolo from young vines growing in the Barolo appellation. Manually harvested. Fermentation on the skins with frequent punch-downs and pump-overs took place in concrete tanks at around 28°C (not temperature controlled) and lasted eight to ten days. Matured 48 months in concrete tanks. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Vitis.
A wild mouse of a nose: “molasses banana cake,” kirsch, cut stems, rum-raisin, marzipan, “plasticine.” In the pie-hole, it’s medium-bodied, quite intense and a little alcoholic, a savoury mix of fruit, spice and minerals with lots of tertiary flavours, including an “aftertaste of black tea.” The acidity’s a bit edgy, the airframe tannins are mostly resolved and the finish, with its odd note somewhere between metallic and acrid, is longer than you want it to be. We’ve enjoyed wines from this estate in the past; this one not so much. An off bottle? (Buy again? Based on this bottle, unlikely.)
MWG January 14th tasting: flight 5 of 7
Two dryish Rieslings
The teaser sent to MWG members prior to the tasting described this flight as “Two aromatic still whites made from the same grape variety. No other connections.”
Kamptal 2013, Riesling, Zöbing, Hirsch ($27.15, 12196979)
100% biodynamically farmed Riesling sourced from several vineyards around the village of Zöbing. The vines average 15 years old. After gentle pressing, the must was allowed to clarify by settling then transferred to temperature-controlled (22°C) stainless steel tanks for fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Screwcapped. Reducing sugar: 4.1 g/l. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Avant-Garde.
Lemon/lime, white rocks and an evanescing note of “vulcanized tires.” A faint spritz is apparent on the first sip but soon dissipates. Stony tending to austere though softened by the ripe fruit and touch of residual sugar. Backbone comes from acidity that some described as “aggressive” but I found enlivening. Long, clean finish. A wine to drink with dinner rather than sipping on its own before. Very good if a little overshadowed by the Baker. (Buy again? Yes.)
Vinemount Ridge QVA 2012, Riesling, Picone Vineyard, Charles Baker ($35.50, 12718482)
Some background on Baker here. 100% Riesling from vines averaging 30 to 35 years old and grown in the Picone vineyard. Sees only stainless steel until bottling. Screwcapped. Reducing sugar: 15 g/l. 11% ABV. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Burned match, “naphthalene” and “Fort McMurray” aromas blow off, leaving classic lemon, lime, grapefruit, green apple and quartz. In the mouth, the wine is remarkably pure, deep, intense, balanced and long, packed with fruit and minerals, all carried on a stream of fluent acidity. It’s also drier than most Canadian Rieslings. Evolves and improves in the glass. Really impressive, price notwithstanding (before the bottle was unveiled, I mentioned that this was the most expensive wine of the evening, prompting one taster to joke, “Then it must be Canadian.”). A world-class wine with at least a decade’s aging potential and undoubtedly one of the best Canadian Rieslings ever made. As such, it’s unmissable. (Buy again? Yes.)
MWG January 14th tasting: flight 4 of 7
Two warm-climate whites
The teaser sent to MWG members prior to the tasting described this flight as “Two warm-climate still whites. No other connections.”
Côtes du Roussillon 2014, Les Glaciaires, Domaine Gardiés ($24.70, 12013378)
Grenache Blanc and Gris (40%), Roussanne (40%), Macabeu (20%) from organically farmed vines. Manually harvested. “Traditional vinification” (whatever that means). Matured eight months in demi-muids. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: La Céleste Levure.
Dusty, sun-baked minerals, hints of lemon, white pepper, garrigue, menthol, peach, anise and, according to more than one taster, “coconut.” Weighty on the palate but also fleet and fresh. There are minerals galore as well as light peach, pear, pineapple and honey and brisk acidity of a type you can’t assume you’ll encounter in a Roussillon white. Long, rainwatery finish. Impeccable. (Buy again? Yep.)
Sicilia 2014, Bianco Maggiore, Cantine Rallo ($22.40, 12476989)
The estate is located in the commune of Marsala, in westernmost Sicily. 100% Grillo from organically farmed vines planted in 2001. Manually harvested. Gently pressed. Alcoholic fermentation in temperature-controlled (16-18°C) stainless steel tanks lasts eight days. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Matured in stainless steel takes for six months and in bottle for one month. Reducing sugar: 2.2 g/l. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Les vins Dupré.
Complex, effusive nose that elicited descriptors like “rocky,” “oily” and “saline.” Aromas of spicy white fruit dusted with lemon zest are echoed in the mouth. Texturally, it’s rich but not heavy. There’s a touch of residual sugar – or maybe it’s just the ripeness of the fruit – but basically we’re talking a round, dry, joyful wine. Good acidity and length. Complete. If you like Grillo, you’ll love this. White of the evening for several around the table. Excellent QPR. (Buy again? Def.)
MWG January 14th tasting: flight 3 of 7
Two dry Loire whites
The teaser sent to MWG members prior to the tasting described this flight as “Two dry, bright still whites from the same broad region. No other connections.”
Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine 2011, Clisson, Ollivier Père et Fils ($21.15, 12259992)
A small restocking of a wine I enjoyed back in October 2014. Clisson is one of the crus communaux (village crus) now recognized in Muscadet (2011 was the first vintage where the commune name could be mentioned on the label). The producer is also known as Ollivier Frères and has no connection with Marc Ollivier of Domaine de la Pépière. 100% Melon de Bougogne from vines between 30 and 75 years old. Matured on the lees for 24 months in stainless steel tanks. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: A.O.C. & Cie.
Chalk and granite, sea breeze, white fruit and, eventually, a whiff of “barley sugar” (quoting another taster). A fundamentally dry, richly textured mouthful of minerals and citrus Nik-L-Nips. Bitter saline minerals and a faint, not unappealing soap aroma mark the long, unctuous finish. Quite substantial for a Muscadet but saved from heaviness by a sustained stream of acidity, this would be dandy with sauced seafood dishes like coquilles St-Jacques as well as rich cheeses. (Buy again? Yes.)
Cheverny 2014, Pure, Domaine des Huards ($20.10, 00961607)
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (85%) and Chardonnay (15%) from biodynamically farmed vines. The grapes are manually harvested and gently pressed. The must is clarified by settling. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts takes place in temperature-controlled (18-20°C) stainless steel tanks. The wine is then racked into stainless steel tanks for maturation on its fine lees. Reducing sugar: 3.5 g/l. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV (redesigned website!).
Nose dominated by unmistakable jalapeño. Get past it and you discover floral, ash and faint stone fruit aromas. The pepper (sans heat, of course) pops up on the palate along with saline minerals and just enough residual sugar to take the edge off the sharp acidity. Long, tangy finish. The wine’s “juicy freshness” is delightful. Though the jalapeño faded as the wine breathed, earlier bottles of this have been totally chile-free, so let’s assume ours was oddly off. (Buy again? Another bottle to check out what’s up, for sure.)
MWG January 14th tasting: flight 2 of 7
New year, new sparklers
In reaction to the excesses of the holiday season, the Mo’ Wine Group’s January tasting traditionally focuses on affordable wines and 2016 was no exception. All the bottles were purchased at the SAQ and most if not all are still available, though not always in large quantities.
Cava, Brut, La Vida al Camp ($19.50, 12693895)
A blend of purchased Macabeo (45%), Xarel·lo (45%) and Parellada (10%) grapes from organically farmed vines grown by a select group of farmers. Made using the traditional method. Second fermentation, which produces the bubbles, takes place in the bottles, which are aged at least 15 months before disgorging. Reducing sugar: 4.8 g/l. 11.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Le Marchand des Vins.
Subdued but appealing nose of sandstone, white lemon and, as one taster perceptively noted, “almond.” Fine effervescence but little foam. On the palate, it’s clean, fresh and quite dry. The light citrus and mineral flavours are joined by faint saline and grapefruit pith notes on the medium-long finish. Elegant and, unlike many inexpensive bubblies, not devoid of character. If there’s a better cava at the SAQ at this price point, I’ve yet to encounter it. (Buy again? Yes.)
Crémant de Bordeaux, Brut, Paulian, Lateyron ($21.95, 12723003)
Sémillon (60%) and Cabernet Franc (40%) from vineyards in the northern and eastern Entre-Deux-Mers region. Made using the traditional method. The bottles are aged at least 24 months before disgorement. Reducing sugar: 12 g/l. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Marchand des Amériques.
Somewhat more fragrant than its Spanish flightmate; the faintly floral aromas have an intriguing sour edge. Softly effervescent with fine bubbles that lighten the slightly waxy texture. Richer and rounder than the cava – probably due to the grape varieties involved, the extract levels and higher residual sugar – but still dry and fresh. The fruit tends to quince and maybe peach and lingers through the slow-fade finish. Not everyone around the table was convinced by this (“tastes like cream soda,” harrumphed one taster) but I and several others liked it. (Buy again? Sure.)
MWG January 14th tasting: flight 1 of 7
Quality price Orthogneiss
Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine 2013, Expression d’Orthogneiss, Domaine de l’Écu ($22.70, 10919141)
100% Melon de Bourgogne (aka Muscadet) from biodynamically farmed, half-century-old vines grown in a three-hectare vineyard with a thin, gravelly top soil and an orthogneiss subsoil. Manually harvested. The whole clusters are pneumatically pressed and the juice unclarified. Fermented with indigenous yeasts at 15–17ºC (59–63ºF). Matured on the lees for 18 months. The winery uses gravity, not pumps, to move the must and wine. Reducing sugar: 1.2 g/l. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Raisonnance.
Subdued nose of stones and apple with whiffs of honey and dried lemon peel. Slightly viscous texture. The subtle fruit – again apple and lemon – is wrapped in minerals, overtoned with honey. Acidity is brisk but unassertive, the finish long and aromatic with long-held notes of paraffin, seawater, bitter herbs and durian. Bone dry yet rich enough that you don’t really notice. Impeccable and age-worthy (up to 10 years from the vintage). Ridiculously high QPR (Muscadet may be France’s most unappreciated white wine). Though Muscadet is the raw oyster wine par excellence, this has the wherewithal to accompany more elaborate, richly sauced dishes. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Three lighter reds
Württemburg 2014, Trollinger, Without All, Weingut Knauss ($28.00, private import, NLA)
100% Trollinger from organically farmed though uncertified vines. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. No added anything, whence the “without all.” Unfiltered and unfined. 9.5% ABV. Screwcapped. Quebec agent: Ward & associés.
A bit spritzy and reduced at first, then sour berries, slate and developing clay and animale notes. Light and fluid on the palate. Airframe tannins and bright acidity provide some structure and faint minerals some depth but this is mainly about the pure fruit. Lip-smacking, sweet and sour finish. Light-bodied almost to the point of lacking substance and yet refreshing and ultra-drinkable, this ethereal wine was a hit with several around the table, despite its high price. (Buy again? Gladly.)
Côtes du Forez 2014, La Volcanique, Cave Verdier-Logel ($21.80, private import, 12 bottles/case)
Based in Marcilly-le-Châtel, the certified organic 17-hectare estate grows Gamay and a little Pinot Gris and Viognier. This cuvée is 100% Gamay from old vines rooted in basalt soil. Manually harvested. Macerated 21 days at around 20°C. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Lightly filtered (earth filters) before bottling. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolite.
Sappy in the way of a good Beaujolais, though the red berries are a little candied and shot through with some greenness. Supple and tasty. Juicy fruit and sustained acidity play against a schisty backdrop while the tannins turn a little bitey on the sustained finish. Finely balanced yet appealingly rustic. To my surprise, this didn’t create the same sensation that the 2013 did (different contexts?). (Buy again? Yes.)
Quebec 2012, Pinot Noir Réserve, Domaine les Brome ($26.00, 12685879)
100% Pinot Noir according to the winery’s website (SAQ.com says the wine contains 7% Maréchal Foch). Macerated and fermented in stainless steel tanks. Matured 12 months in oak barrels. Reducing sugar: 1.9%. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: Univins.
A nose that tasters described as “electrical fire,” “cordite” and simply “weird.” Reactions to the taste were similar, “copper penny” being the one I noted. The not very pinot-ish fruit is brightened by good acidity but deflated by saggy tannins and muddied by extraneous flavours. Odd-tasting finish. I’m hoping ours was an off bottle. (Buy again? Unlikely.)
This flight was built around the Trollinger and the other two wines were chosen in the hope that they might be close to its light body. Neither was. In fact, I’ve encountered only one wine recently that is: Domaine de la Pinte’s 2012 Arbois “Poulsard de l’ami Karl,” which we tasted back in October.
MWG November 12th tasting: flight 4 of 6
Two weighty whites
Soave Classico 2012, La Froscà, Gini ($26.80, 12132107)
Organically farmed Garganega from 57-year-old vines. The manually harvested grapes are soft-pressed and the must is cold-macerated on the skins. Temperature-controlled alcoholic fermentation is in a mix of stainless steel and neutral French oak casks. Does not undergo malolactic fermentation. Matured on the lees for at least eight months, partly in stainless steel tanks, partly in 228-litre “seasoned” oak barrels. Sulphur is added only at bottling. Reducing sugar: 3.4 g/l. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Bambara Selection.
Peach, lemon, quince, honey and fresh-cut hay make for a fairly appealing nose. In the mouth, however, it’s a different story. Viscous, extracted, dry, alcoholic and bitter on the finish. The relatively low acidity and lack of prominent minerals mean the wine tastes flat. Very different from the wine sampled a couple of months earlier. Even a Bambara employee who was present didn’t recognize it. Probably an off bottle, then. (Buy again? Based on this bottle, no. Based on the earlier bottle, absolutely. You pays your money and you takes your chances…)
Robola de Céphalonie 2014, Vino di Sasso, Domaine Sclavos ($25.20, 12485877)
First time at the SAQ. 100% Robola from organically farmed, ungrafted old vines grown on the Ionian island of Cephalonia. Vino di sasso means “wine of stone,” a reference to the island’s rocky cliffs and outcrops. The manually harvested grapes are directly pressed. The must is fermented at low temperatures with indigenous yeasts and matured eight months on the lees. Sees only stainless steel until bottling. Bottled unfiltered, unfined and with only a tiny squirt of sulphur dioxide. Reducing sugar: 3.9 g/l. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Wafting nose of quartz, seashells, lemon and fresh sweat with faint background herbs. Medium-bodied yet possessed of a certain fruity heft, though by no means an exuberantly fruity wine. A rich vein of minerals runs throughout and lends a salty tang to the long, bitter-edged finish. Tasty enough, especially at table alongside a sea bass, but maybe lacking the last bit of éclat found in the 2013. (Buy again? Sure.)
MWG November 12th tasting: flight 2 of 6
Two sparkling rosés
Crémant du Jura 2011, Rosé, Domaine Labet ($26.75, private import, 12 bottles/case, NLA)
A 60-40 blend of organically farmed Pinot Noir and Poulsard from 30- to 40-year-old vines. Macerated on the skins for several days. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Matured on its fine lees in fûts (42%), vats (32%) and barrels (26%). Allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation. A small amount of yeast and sugar was added to the finished wine, which was then bottled and matured. After three years, the bottles were disgorged, given a small dosage and corked. 12.2% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Lovely if understated mix of minerals, red berries (“old cherries” per one taster) and rhubarb with faint honey, old wood and floral overtones. In the mouth, it’s dry, minerally, haunted by fruit and wood, animated by fine bubbles and brilliant acidity. The long, clean finish has hints of toast and – could it be? – tannins. This was shown on trade day at the Salon des vins d’importation privée and restaurateurs were understandably all over it. (Buy again? Oh, yes.)
3B Rosé, Método Tradicional, Filipa Pato (c. $25.00, private import, 6 bottles/case, NLA)
A 70-30 blend of Baga and Bical from the Bairrada region (whence the three Bs); the vines average 30 years old and are rooted in sandy and clayey limestone soils. Manually harvested and gently pressed. Allowed to clarify by settling, then cool-fermented (16°C) with indigenous yeasts in 650-litre barrels and stainless steel vats. Sparkled using the traditional method. 11.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Importations du Moine.
Dense though not particularly fruity nose: “cream soda meets barley candy,” terracotta, melon, a hint of strawberry and a whiff of musk. More viscous than the buoyant Labet. Fruitier, too, though not bonbon-ish, thanks in part to the mineral substrate. Mild effervescence and soft acidity may explain the slight lethargy. A touch of peppery bitterness and astringency enlivens the long finish, which is more felt than tasted. Dry at first, the wine seemed to gain sweetness as it warmed and breathed. The member who donated the bottle said the white 3B is even more interesting. (Buy again? Maybe.)
MWG November 12th tasting: flight 1 of 6
Brett happens 