Archive for the ‘Tasting notes’ Category
MWG April Jura tastings: report (2/6)
Poulsard and Trousseau are the Jura’s traditional red (some would say dark pink) varieties, though Pinot Noir has been gaining ground in recent years. Poulsard wines are traditionally paired with the local charcuterie and smoked meats, Trousseau wines with game.
Arbois 2007, Trousseau, Nos Vendanges, Rolet Père et Fils ($21.95, 11194592)
Founded in the 1940s, Rolet is one of the largest producers of Jura wine, second only to Henri Maire. Makes wines from every appellation except Château Chalon, and the quality is high across the board. One of the trail-blazing producers of mono-varietals, Rolet continues to focus primarily on single-grape-variety wines.
Wild strawberry, cranberry, spice. Light-bodied, dry, acid bright, quite tannic and not very fruity. Minerals there are, though, and a sweet, grainy flavour (barley sugar?). Strawberry-scented finish. Refreshing. (Buy again? Sure.)
Côtes du Jura 2007, Jean Bourdy ($22.70, 11195747)
Jean-François Bourdy refers to this as his PPT (Poulsard, Pinot, Trousseau). The wine is matured three to four years in old oak barrels before bottling. The estate says good vintages can age up to 50 or 60 years; seeing as how they were pouring a still-vibrant wines from the ’50s and ’60s (the SAQ Signature outlets are currently stocking the 1964) at various Jura events a few weeks ago, it’s not an empty claim. Jean-François also suggests carafing the wine for two or three hours before serving, advice our bottle indicated you should follow.
Wild cherry, quartz, lily of the valley, hints of stable and wood shavings. Smooth, fluid, light. Silky attack. The sweet, spicy fruit gives way to fine astringent tannins. Got even better – fuller, richer, deeper – as it breathed. (Buy again? Yes.)
Côtes du Jura 2009, Pinot Noir, Domaine Labet ($26.85, 11555108)
My latest information, which dates from a couple of years ago, is that Domaine Labet is a practionner of lutte raisonnée. Aside from an early spring herbicide and moderate sulphuring post-fermentation, extraneous chemicals are avoided.
Spicy, strawberry, slightly herbaceous/minty and flowery. Richer than the non-Pinots but still a welterweight. Satiny texture. Fresh and sprightly, with fine, supple tannins and very pure fruit. A bit light on the finish. (Buy again? Sure.)
Côtes du Jura 2008, Poulsard, En Billat, Julien Labet ($28.00, oenopole, NLA)
Though still connected with the eponymous family domaine, Julien also makes wines under his own name. As befits his age and rocker reputation, he’s more open to experimenting. He’s been farming organically for a while and is in the process of obtaining official certification.
Complex nose, mainly red berries and forest floor. Light yet richly flavoured. Tart, ripe fruit. Tingly acid and, on the finish, tannins. Lingering woodsy note. Textbook Poulsard, with everything in proportion. (Buy again? Already did.)
Arbois 2009, Poulsard, Jacques Puffeney ($30.64, 12 btls/case, Vini-Vins)
Puffeney is one of the Jura’s legendary winemakers and one of the handful who are equally accomplished with reds and whites. A traditionalist in the best sense of the term, he farms organically and uses only ambient yeasts.
Delicate cranberry/lingonberry nose. Lean and very dry, bordering on austere. Light, fine tannins. One taster perceptively described the combination of flavours and astringency as “fruit tea.” Penetrating finish with a hint of earth and spice. Will benefit from a couple of years in the bottle. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Côtes du Jura 2008, Pinot Noir, En Barberon, André et Mireille Tissot ($32.00, 10269661)
This forward-looking estate is now run by André and Mireille’s son, the affable Stéphane. The house style tends toward modern, vibrant, more fruit-driven wines, albeit ones that sacrifice none of the their jurassien character. Organic since the late 1990s, biodynamic since the mid-naughts.
Ça pinote: red berries, crushed leaves, wet shale, hints of game. Smooth, light tannins grow stronger on finish. Fruity yet dry and astringent. An intriguing combination of lightness and intensity. Not quite as seductive as the 2006 but not without appeal. (Buy again? Sure.)
Côtes du Jura 2009, Poulsard, En Billat, Julien Labet ($34.25, oenopole, NLA)
What a difference a year makes. Smells and tastes riper than the 2008. Nose of sweet cherry and a combination of eucalyptus and barnyard that one taster called “koala fart.” Medium-bodied, smooth and pure, the fruit and minerals in equilibrium. Structured with sweet, round tannins. Turns drier on the long finish. An atypically rich expression of the grape. (Buy again? Sure but the 2008’s more my style.)
Arbois 2009, Trousseau, Jacques Puffeney ($37.31, 12 btls/case, Vini-Vins)
Red fruit with an earthy, gamy edge to it. Again light-bodied but conveying an impression of richness, due largely to the juicy, tart fruit. Quite tannic. The long, tangy finish dissolves into minerals. Hard to imagine a better Trousseau. A couple of weeks before the tasting, this paired beautifully with the tourtière, duck and pork dishes at the Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack. (Buy again? Oh, yes.)
Definitely not the Jura except…
…for the colour, which probably qualifies as rubis or corail.
Verduno Pelaverga 2010, Comm. G.B. Burlotto ($19.35, 11599063)
100% Pelaverga Piccolo. Macerated and fermented in temperature-controlled French oak vats, with pumping over and daily racking and returning. Undergoes malolactic fermentation in stainless steel vats. Matured three months in large Slavonian and French oak casks and two months in stainless steel casks.
Light dusky ruby with brilliant scarlet glints. Lightly fragrant: black pepper, cumin, strawberry/raspberry, fresh sawdust, dried blood. Light-bodied and lightly flavoured, with raspy tannins and coursing acidity. Though there’s some sweet fruit at its core, the wine starts dry and gets drier, almost alarmingly so by the end. The long finish is woody (as distinct from oaky), hotish (14% ABV), sourish and, above all (not to mention, below, behind, in front of and on either side of all), black peppery. After that fades, a faint raspberry aftertaste.
Sweetened a little as it breathed, so probably best carafed an hour or two before serving. Also better lightly chilled to tame the heat. To my surprise, it didn’t pair well with a salume-stuffed calzone.
While the SAQ is to be applauded for expanding their and our horizons and while this is a wine that deserves respect (Burlotto’s been making it since 1800), Fratelli Alessandria’s version is the one to love.
Definitely not the Jura
Chianti Classico 2009, Querciabella ($28.80, 10277986)
Biodyanmically farmed Sangiovese (95%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) from several vineyards. The grapes are destemmed but not crushed, then fermented and macerated in stainless steel vats. Spends 12 months in French oak casks (10% new for the Sangiovese, 80% new for the Cabernet). No animal products are used in the process, making this a vegan-friendly wine.
Smells like Tuscany. Red and black cherry, terra cotta, turned earth, cedar, hints of leather and tobacco. Closed down as it breathed.
Tastes like it smells. Medium-bodied with a fluid texture. The lean, ripe fruit is wrapped in fine but puckery tannins. Acidity brightens everything. Slate and cigar box outlinger the fruit on the long finish.
Savoury and suave if tight and a little one-dimensional at present; a few years (as many as ten) in a cool, dark place will bring suppleness and complexity. Which isn’t to say that those who aren’t allergic to austere, youthfully astringent wines won’t derive pleasure now.
Always one of my favourite Chianti Classicos, this is true to form in 2009. Just about perfect with lamb chops marinated in lemon juice and olive oil then grilled over charcoal and served with sautéed spinach and rosemary roasted potatoes. Must buy more.
Jura detour
The report on the 28 remaining bottles from the MWG’s recent Jurathon is coming. In the meantime, here’s a note on a wine I bought for one of the tastings but didn’t manage to squeeze in.
Arbois-Pupillin 2010, Pinot Noir, Benoit Badoz ($20.60, 11195721)
Vinified in stainless steel, aged in old foudres. Cherry nose with more than a hint of cough drop; some slate and candied violet in the background, too. Light-bodied. Sweet and tart fruit. Tannins, such as they are, appear only on the credible finish. Simple but clean, refreshing and enjoyable. A wine you could open when you’re in the mood for a Beaujolais cru but your companion is a Gamay hater.
This went well with the moistest rabbit in mustard sauce I know:
Lapin à la cauchoise
- In a Dutch oven or sauté pan, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Brown a rabbit cut into 6 to 8 pieces. (Hot temperatures make for dry, stringy rabbit. Adjust the heat accordingly.) After browning, remove the meat and discard all the cooking fat.
- Return the pan to the burner, turn the heat to low and add 3 tablespoons crème fraîche, scraping the bottom of the pan to free the tasty brown bits. Return the meat to the pan, turning the pieces 2 or 3 times to coat them with cream. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Cover the pan and simmer very gently for 10 minutes.
- When the 10 minutes are up, add 1 tablespoon crème fraîche to the pan and turn the meat. Cover and continue cooking for another 10 minutes. Add 1 more tablespoon of crème, turn the meat and simmer for 10 minutes more. Add 1 last tablespoon of crème and simmer for 5 minutes.
- Whisk together 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 3/4 cup dry white wine and 2 large, finely chopped shallots. Pour the mixture into the pan. Turn the meat again, then cover and simmer gently for 15 or 20 minutes. Adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately with sautéed or French fried potatoes.
H/t to wapiti for “Jurathon.”
MWG April Jura tastings: report (1/6)
Though sparkling wines have been made in the Jura for decades, the Crémant du Jura AOC was created only in 1995. Styles range from bone dry to off-dry and from fresh to quite oxidized. Some pink crémant is made. The permitted grape varieties are Chardonnay, Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir. White crémant is at least half Chardonnay, rosé crémant at least half Pinot Noir or Poulsard. To my mind, these are among the best – and best value – sparklers outside Champagne.
Crémant du Jura 2008, Brut, Rolet Père et Fils ($21.45, 10653380)
Haven’t found any technical information on the 2008. The 2007 was a blend (Chardonnay, with Savagnin and Poulsard making up about 45%) that spent 32 months sur lattes (bottled and stacked with thin strips of wood – think laths – laid between the bottles to stabilize the stacks and minimize damage in the event a bottle explodes).
Flowers, quartz dust, lemon. Very fine bead. Bright fruit (green apple, pear) balances the high acid. Soft effervescence. Long leesy/sourish finish. Pure and refreshing. Great as an aperitif or for sipping on the deck. (Buy again? Sure.)
Crémant du Jura, Jean Bourdy ($27.00, La QV)
The estate has been organic “since the start” (quoting Jean-François Bourdy), which in this case means since the 15th century, biodynamic since 2006. 100% Chardonnay.
The very model of a crémant du Jura. Floral, lemony nose with a hint of toast and nuts. Light, fine bead. Dry. Fruit and brioche shot through with minerals and racy acidity. Clean, softly effervescent finish. Lovely on its own but perhaps even better with food. (Buy again? Yep.)
Crémant du Jura, BBF, André et Mireille Tissot ($33.54, Les Vins Alain Bélanger)
The BBF stands for blanc de blancs élevé en fût. Three-quarters of this 100% biodynamic Chardonnay crémant spends a year in barrels. After blending, it is aged another 52 months sur lattes before disgorgement. Extra brut, with no dosage.
A shade or two darker than the other wines: yellow, verging on gold, with fine, long-lasting bubbles. Complex nose with hints of puff pastry, vanilla cream, dried banana and caramel. Winey texture. Fruit (browning apple), straw and mineral flavours are lifted by bright acidity and tingling effervescence. Very dry, despite the richness. The long, bitter-edged finish has a lingering floral note. The wine’s size and savour make it better suited as an accompaniment to food than as an aperitif. Considering that many champagnes would pale in comparison, it delivers great QPR. (Buy again? As soon as I can lay my hands on some, which will probably be in December, when the next shipment arrives.)
A quartet of naturals
Among the many attractions of SAT’s Foodlab is the short, constantly changing selection of natural wines, most of them available by the glass. (Among the few downsides of SAT’s Foodlab is the stemware: heavy and small, meaning the glasses are filled nearly to the brim and allow no room for the wine’s bouquet to develop.) We ordered four to accompany this week’s excellent Russian Easter menu, the high points of which were a clear borscht, a coulibiac of halibut and salmon and the dessert, a slice of dry, cardamom-perfumed cake and a slice of a pressed cheese obelisk garnished with candied fruit and almonds.
Bourgogne Aligoté 2010, François Mikulski (c. $25, Vini-Vins)
100% Aligoté from two Meursault parcels planted in 1929 and 1948. Initially muted (possibly the fault of the glasses). The nose’s white peach, quartz and hint of lemon are joined by green fruit (gooseberry?) in the mouth. Acid-bright but not sharp; indeed, it sits softly on the palate. Finishes on a faintly lactic, ashy, leafy note. Not profound but wonderfully drinkable.
Burgenland 2009, Blauburgunder, Meinklang ($25.30, La QV)
100% biodynamically farmed Blauburgunder (aka Pinot Noir). Extroverted nose: berries, beet, cola, earth and smoke. Medium-bodied (13%) and intensely flavoured, the ripe fruit sharing the stage with spices, slate and dried wood. Fluid texture. Light, firm tannins turn astringent on the finish. A vibrant Pinot Noir, not at all Burgundian yet very true to the grape. A winner.
Cour-Cheverny 2009, La Porte Dorée, Domaine Philippe Tessier (c. $28, Vini-Vins)
100% Romorantin from 40- to 90-year-old vines; 85% is aged ten months in demi-muids and barriques. Dry but lightly honeyed. Round, supple and fluid. Acid blossoms on the deliciously sourish finish. Minerals galore and a preserved lemon aftertaste. Pure, clean, long. A beauty.
Colli Piacentini 2010, Dinavolino, Azienda Agricola Denavolo ($27.04, Primavin)
Hazy bronze to the eye. Wafting nose of honey-candied yellow fruit, spice and a whiff of musk (not knowing anything about the wine, I wrote “Malvasian,” so it’s true to type). Quite intense on the attack – fruity, grapey, semi-sweet – it downshifts radically on the mid-palate, fading and drying to rainwater and minerals with a hint of tannins. Intriguing.
Quebec agent Primavin provides the following information on the wine, which is penned by the owner-winemaker, Giulio Armani, who is also the winemaker at La Stoppa:
Located at 500 m high, the vineyard DENAVOLO, named after the mountain upper the cellar and the locality where the vineyard is planted, spreads over 3 hectares in the Colli Piacentini area.
The vines are grown on limestone soil, the climate is hot and dry, but at this altitude, the temperature fluctuations between night and day are more than 10°C, explaining that freshness and minerality in the wines.
We only use local grapes : 25% Malvasia di Aromatica Candia, 25% Ortrugo, 25% Marsanne grapes and another not identified yet.
DINAVOLO and DINAVOLINO are produced as if they were red wines, the grapes are de-stemmed, crushed and then stay several months in skin maceration to release in the wine all the aromatic and phenolic components which are in the skin. The wines present a beautiful orange colour, a mineral and lightly flowerish nose, the mouth is well-structured with tannins and a good length.
The main difference between both cuvée comes from the location of the grapes in the vineyard. To produce DINAVOLINO, I selected grapes only located in the downer part of the hill, those grapes keep more acidity and the wine produced is completely different, freshner, younger and more aromatic.
Quick tastes
Short notes (from memory) on small pours of three new arrivals.
Not every 2009 white Burgundy is heavy on tropical fruit and light on acidity. Case in point: the Bourgogne Vézelay 2009, La Piécette, Domaine de la Cadette ($22.70. 11589691). Almost shockingly brisk, tingling with minerals and finishing on a tart note. Grabs you by the palate and doesn’t let go. Was served over-chilled; it might well come across as richer, less citric and bracing if warmer. Whatever. I like.
The Rubicone IGT 2010, Alta Marea, San Valentino ($17.55, 11579994), a blend of Chardonnay (80%) and Trebbiano (20%) that’s aged in stainless steel tanks, was rounder and denser on entry, the fruit sweeter but also a little blander (I guessed it was 100% Trebbiano), the background flavours tending to straw rather than minerals, the acidity present but not electrifying. About halfway through, it did a quick dissolve into rainwater. Probably not done any favours by being tasted after the Piécette but enjoyable enough.
The nose of the Vosne-Romanée 2008, Les Champs Perdrix, Bruno Clair ($86.25, 00880534) couldn’t be more Burgundian: red berries with hints of forest floor, beet, cola and burning leaves. On the palate, the wine’s poise, purity, structure, oak treatment and length leave no doubt as to its thoroughbred status. And yet the fruit is nearly devoid of sweetness and not revealing much depth, the tannins are almost too firm, the finish is way smoky. Obviously in need of time to resolve and integrate but not quite making a believer out of me, especially at that price.
MWG March 16th tasting: report (4/4)
Finalmente!
In this flight, only the Zýmè was from the March 15th Cellier release.
Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2008, Acinatico, Stefano Accordini ($26.15, 11027954)
Corvina (60%), Rondinella (20%), Covinone (15%) and Molinara (5%). Refermented using the skins of Amarone grapes. Matured 12 months in new French oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered. Pleasing nose of root beer, beet, burnt sugar, plum and vanilla custard. Smooth, creamy, bordering on unctuous texture. Rich fruit, soft tannins, refreshing acidity. Perceptible residual sugar but not sweet. Spicy finish. Lovely. (Buy again? Yep.)
Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008, Dell’Anniversario, Serego Alighieri ($26.45, 10543404)
The anniversary in question is the 650th of the purchase of the first wine-growing estates by Dante’s son, Pietro Alighieri. Corvina (70%), Rondinella (20%) and Molinara (10%). Refermented with semi-dried grapes from the same varieties. Matured 18 months in Slavonian oak casks and four months in large cherry barrels. Initially odd nose (“a bit skanky” in the words of one taster) of dried pine needles, segueing to herbaceous cherry and spice. Drier than the other two wines. More savoury, too, with flavours reminiscent of stewed cherries and plums, cocoa, sweet spice and herbs. Full-bodied but medium weight and fluid. Lingering earth, tea and dried wood notes. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007, Zýmè ($32.75, 11587151)
Corvina (40%), Covinone (30%), Rondinella (25%) and Oseleta (5%). Given the ripasso treatment using the skins of Amarone grapes. Matured three years in large Slavonian oak casks. Deep yet fresh nose: plum, spice, gingerbread, eventually basil. Round and richly textured, with ample fruit, plush tannins and soft but sufficient acidity. Long sandalwood and red fruit finish. Highish residual sugar may edge it out of savoury food territory, though it paired beautifully with crémeux du Jura cheese. (Buy again? In lieu of a port to go with cheese, sure.)
MWG March 16th tasting: report (3/4)
Wildass Red 2008, Niagara Peninsula, Stratus ($24.00, 11601143)
A hodgepodge of a dozen or so grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Tempranillo. Complex if not particularly deep nose: black cherry, shoe leather, turned earth, leaf mould, sawed wood, volatile herbs. Smooth and fluid from start to finish. Structured but not rigid. Spicy fruit, racy acid and a slatey finish. Pure and appealing. One of the most drinkable Ontario reds I’ve tasted; too bad it doesn’t go for $20. (Buy again? Yes.)
Colli Euganei IGT 2006, Gemola, Vignalta ($43.50, 11581074)
Vignalta’s flagship wine. Mainly Merlot with some Cabernet Franc, grown in volcanic soils. Red fruit with notes of tomato paste, cola and tobacco leaf. Medium-bodied, velvet-textured. Rich but vibrant: sweet dark fruit and a touch of vanilla shaped by firm tannins and keen acidity. Long, savoury finish. Lots of class. (Buy again? Quite possibly.)
Toscana IGT 2006, Pergolaia, Caiarossa ($23.55, 11604619)
Biodynamically farmed Sangiovese (90%), Merlot (7%) and Cabernet Franc (3%). Fermented with native yeasts. Sulphur is used minimally and added only after malolactic fermentation. Aged 14 months in neutral barriques and botti. Textbook Sangiovese nose, albeit fresher than a Chianti’s: black cherry, savoury spice and terra cotta with herbaceous and graphite notes. Medium-bodied, with sweet fruit, tight, drying tannins and coursing acidity. Fairly long, tobacco-scented finish. Straightforward, nothing profound but pure and enjoyable. (Buy again? Yes.)
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2001, Vigneto St. Ercolano, Carpineto ($50.00, 11566464)
Sangiovese (85%) with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, all from a vineyard planted in 1995. Fermented in cement vats with indigenous yeasts. Matured 13 months in new French and American oak barrels. Bottled unfiltered in 2003, then cellared for five years before release. Suave nose of plum, cedar, spice and cigar box. The fruit starts smooth and silky but dries on the leathery finish. The lightly astringent tannins are mostly resolved. Not much depth or dazzle for a $50 wine. (Buy again? Unlikely.)
MWG March 16th tasting: report (2/4)
Dogliani Superiore 2007, Bricco Botti, Pecchenino ($30.50, 11605494)
100% Dolcetto. Macerated on the skins for 25 days at 28ºC, matured 24 months in large oak casks. Nose of sawed wood, black cherry, forest floor and a faint resin note that, with the cherry, had some tasters declaring “Robitussin.” Plush texture with light but firm tannins. The rich dark fruit hides the alcohol (14.5%) except on the kirschy finish. Impressive in the context of a tasting but I wonder how well it would fare at the dining table. (Buy again? Pricey and not my style, so probably not.)
Dolcetto d’Alba 2010, Fratelli Alessandria ($19.95, 11580186)
100% Dolcetto. Fermented and macerated for six to eight days in stainless steel tanks, matured in stainless steel and cement tanks. Appealing nose of red berries, spice and quartz. Leaner, suppler and fruitier than the Doglaini; purer and more refreshing, too. Raspy tannins kick in on mid-palate. Spice and minerals flavour the clean finish. Just about perfect in its low-key way. (Buy again? Already have.)
Barbera d’Alba 2008, Tre Vigne, Vietti ($25.80, 11580178)
100% Barbera from three vineyards (whence the name). Fermented in stainless steel, matured in Slovenian oak casks, French barriques and stainless steel tanks for ten months. Bottled unfiltered. Velvety cherry, slate and oak on the nose. Smooth and suave in the mouth with rich, dry fruit and soft tannins and acidity. Oaky vanilla marks the long finish. Few around the table objected to the oak but I found it distracting. Barbera doesn’t need to give itself airs. (Buy again? No thanks.)
Pinot Noir 2008, Beamsville Bench, Malivoire ($31.25, 11593614)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from three Beamsville vineyards. Fermented in open-top oak vats, then aged in 23% new French oak barrels for 11 months. Screwcapped. Reductive aromas – cedar and plastic – blow off, leaving an earthy nose of red berries and spice. Supple, fluid and lightly tannic, with bright acidity. Fruit is light and not very sweet but obviously ripe. Bitterish/astringent finish. A bit rustic, which only adds to the appeal. (Buy again? All that’s holding me back is the QPR.)
Brett happens 