Posts Tagged ‘food pairings’
MWG June 12th tasting: Craziness? Not.
VDP de L’Hérault 2012, L’In, Mas Conscience ($29.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
The cuvée’s name, L’In, is a play on the estate’s name; it stands for l’inconscience (craziness, madness), a reference to the folly of making dry white wines in the hot Languedoc. This, the estate’s only white, is a blend of organically and biodynamically farmed Grenache Blanc (50%), Rolle (24%), Roussanne (24%) and Viognier (2%). The grapes are harvested by hand, typically in late August to ensure a degree of freshness. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. Allowed to undergo malolatic fermentation. Filtered before bottling. Use of sulphur is minimized. Around 500 cases are produced. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolite.
Honeyed white fruit and white flowers, chalk and fresh hay. Weighty and dry, even a bit alkaline, but still quite fresh. As much about minerals as fruit. Long finish. Less complete and transporting than some top Languedoc-Roussillon whites (Clos du Rouge Gorge and Mas de Daumas Gassac, for example) though, in its defence, they cost considerably more. Probably best thought of as a food wine. Would go well with dishes like scallops with asparagus, orange and thyme, sea bass baked in a salt crust, and rabbit and preserved lemon tagine. (Buy again? Sure.)
MWG June 12th tasting: A natural Riesling from far northern California
Willow Creek 2010, Riesling, Hardesty Cellars ($36.50, private import, 6 bottles/case)
The coastal Willow Creek AVA is located in California’s Trinity River valley. This 100% Riesling is made from organically farmed grapes that were manually harvested and pressed directly into a 55-gallon stainless steel barrel. The must is fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured for nine months. The wine contains no added anything, including sulphites and is bottled unfiltered and unfined. Total production: 23 cases. 13.8% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolite.
Reductive nose with some yeast and browning apple eventually coming forward. A bit sprtizy. There’s the rich texture and hints of tropical fruit you expect in a California white but with Riesling’s racy acidity and minerality at its core. Residual sugar? A touch of sweetness on the attack but quite dry on the long finish. Seemed a little unsettled. A couple of post-tasting comments from MWG members: “I must try it with Indian food!” and, perhaps more tellingly, “I dug the Californian but keep forgetting it was a Riesling.” Quite good with cheese, especially an ash-covered goat cheese, which may explain why it’s on the wine lists of several of Montreal’s best restaurants and wine bars. (Buy again? Yes, for um research purposes.)
MWG June 12th tasting: A classic Riesling in half bottles
La QV’s Cyril Kérébel recently joined the Mo’ Wine Group to lead a memorable tasting of 12 of his agency’s newly arrived private imports (“truly outstanding,” “one of the best,” “excellentissima” and “a fascinating selection of invariably drinkable wines” were some of the post-tasting comments). We wet our whistles with a wine imported in half bottles in response to local restaurant demand.
Alsace 2007, Riesling, Domaine Moritz ($14.00/375 ml, private import, 12 bottles/case)
The 12-hectare estate is located in Andlau, halfway between Strasbourg and Colmar. Half of its holdings, which include three grand cru vineyards, are given over to Riesling. Farming is, for all intents and purposes, organic but not certified as such. The vines average 40 years old. The grapes for this Riesling (100 %) were manually harvested, gently pressed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in large old oak barrels. 12% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolite.
Classic and classy nose of lemon/lime, chalk and a hint of petrol. Dry and tart in the mouth. The upfront fruit dissovles in a swirl of minerals and lingers well into the long saline finish. Not particularly deep but pure and delicious. A hit with just about everyone around the table, this versatile wine is light and refreshing enough to make a great aperitif and substantial enough to accompany seafood and white meats. The half-bottle format only adds to the appeal. (Buy again? Definitely.)
Dolcetto misterioso
With the 2011 having garnered a rave from Dolcettoman, I’d had an eye peeled for Silvio Grasso’s 2012 Dolcetto for the better part of a year now. But I’d missed its arrival at the SAQ until the Gazette’s Bill Zacharkiw mentioned it yesterday in his must-read article on the trend toward high sugar levels in red wines (the Grasso was, rightly, listed as a wine that bucked the trend).
Technical information on the wine is in short supply. What are the estate’s farming practices? How are the grapes picked? Are they destemmed? Are the fermentation yeasts indigenous or selected? Is the wine filtered, fined or sulphured? The producer and its distributors apparently don’t think its important for the public to know.
Langhe Dolcetto 2012, Silvio Grasso ($18.90, 12062081)
100% Dolcetto from 15 to 20-year-old vines. Not listed on the producer’s website. According to the Quebec agent, it’s fermented and macerated on the skins for four to five days and matured for seven to eight months, all in stainless steel tanks. 14% ABV per the SAQ, 13.5% per the label. Quebec agent: Rézin.
Popped and poured. Changing nose: at various times mulberry, plum, spice (cinnamon?), turned-over log, sawed wood, graphite, old books and whiffs of alcohol. Medium-bodied and very dry. The fruit takes a back seat here, leaves the driving to fine, tight tannins, tickling acidity and a fleet fluidity. An alcoholic kick – not a burn – lifts the lightly astringent finish. Sleek and savoury in a way that Dolcettos normally aren’t. Zacharkiw says “It has the high and the low end, and whatever you eat will fill out the middle.” Let’s agree it’s better with food than without. But I also found it a bit hollow on its own – until I vigorously swirled it in my mouth, that is, at which point it exploded with fruit. That and the fact that it deepened and smoothed as it breathed suggest it may be passing through a dumb phase and that, if opened now, it should be carafed or double-carafed an hour or two. A fine match for spaghetti with pesto rosso and a plate of sliced prosciutto. (Buy again? A bottle or two to continue investigating WTF is up with this wine.)
Un Côtes de Francs franc de goût
Bordeaux Côtes de Francs 2008, Château le Puy ($27.35, 00709469)
The estate makes several wines. This, the only one brought into Quebec, is the Emilien bottling, though that description appears nowhere on the front label. A blend of biodynamically and organically farmed Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère (85%, 14% and 1% respectively in typical vintages) from 50-year-old vines. The grapes are fully destemmed. Fermentation in open, temperature-controlled vats with indigenous yeasts and no chaptalization lasts two to four weeks. Matured 24 months, 60% of the time in large foudres and 40% of the time in third- to fifth-fill oak casks. Bottled unfiltered. 12.5% ABV. Also available in 500 ml bottles ($18.70, 00896399). Quebec agent: A.O.C. & cie Châteaux et Domaines.
Wafting nose of cassis and red fruit with faint herbs, spice and mushroom, a pianissimo floral note and, unlike some bottles, not a hint of barnyard. Medium-bodied and smooth textured. The bright fruit and supple tannins flow to the clean finish on a long stream of soft acidity. Less compelling than the 2005? If so, only a little. With all its elements integrated, this civilized, honest, eminently drinkable wine is approachable now but balanced and alive enough to continue developing for at least another five or maybe even ten years. Probably not the first choice for a grilled T-bone (look to Argentina for that), this would accompany braised meats, grilled veal chops or meat pies to perfection. It also made a synergistic match with za’atar hummus, picking up on the earthy, citrus and herb flavours in a most surprising way. (Buy again? Sure.)
The summer sipper par excellence
Bugey Cerdon 2013, Méthode ancestrale, Domaine Renardat-Fache ($28.74, private import, 12 bottles/case)
Organically and biodynamically farmed Gamay and Poulsard from vines planted between 1960 and 2010. Manually harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wine is bottled before fermentation is complete and continues fermenting in the bottle, creating the gas that makes it sparkle. After two months, the wine is filtered and recorked. 7.5% ABV. Quebec agent: La QV/Insolte.
An especially beguiling vintage of this perennial favourite. Deep pink or pale red (take your pick), with abundant if short-lived foam. Redolent of cherry, strawberry and cranberry. Floral overtones, slate undertones and a hint of yeast add complexity, while a soft effervescence tickles and lifts. Would be tart were the acidity not balanced by a touch of sweetness. Chalky minerals flavour the finish. So light, refreshing and fun. The summer sipper par excellence, this also accompanies not-too-sweet red berry desserts, grilled hamburgers (the adult version of strawberry soda!) and – you heard it first here, folks – mild to medium-hot Punjabi-style Indian food.
EDIT: An earlier version of this note mistakenly named the producer as Patrick Bottex, whom La QV also represents. The price, links and technical information have been updated accordingly.
15 in 2012
Santorini 2012, Cuvée No. 15, Hatzidakis Winery ($31.50, 11901189)
100% Assyrtiko from ungrafted vines grown in three organically farmed parcels. Macerated on the skins for 12 hours, the must is then separated, clarified and fermented with indigenous yeasts at 18°C. Matured on the lees in stainless steel tanks for eight months. A small amount of sulphur is added at bottling. 2,700 bottles produced. 14.5% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Pale gold-bronze in the glass, surely an artifact of the skin-maceration. Complex nose: briny minerals against a backdrop of ash, lemon zest and peach leather. Rich and intense in the mouth. Full-bodied though so alive with acidity you hardly notice. Ripe-sweet on the attack, the densely extracted but otherwise restrained fruit quickly turns dry and ebbs into a sea of crunchy minerals. The saline finish is endless. A wine with every dimension, with the kind of presence, structure, delineation and authority found in white Burgundies costing two and even three times as much. Like most whites of its stature, best served cool (13-14°C), not chilled. Food pairings? Working from the winemaker’s suggestions, seared tuna or pan-roasted, stewed or grilled oysters seem like naturals. Or – surprise! – marinate some single-rib lamb chops in olive oil and lemon juice at room temperature for 30 minutes, then grill over hot charcoal, season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper and serve.
MWG May 15th tasting (3/6): Dry whites from Clos du Gravillas
Founded in 1996, Clos du Gravillas is run by a husband and wife team (he’s from Kentucky, she’s from Narbonne). Their 8.5 hectares of vines, including a parcel of Carignan planted in 1911 and some old Grenache Blanc and Gris, are located on rocky soils within the Parc naturel régional du Haut-Languedoc and the Minervois AOC. The estate is certified organic.
VDP des Côtes du Brian 2012, Emmenez-moi au bout du Terret, Clos du Gravillas ($26.38, private import, 12 bottles/case)
100% organically farmed Terret Gris from 50-year-old vines. Manually harvested. Vinified and matured for nine to 11 months in 500-litre Austrian oak barrels. 2,500 bottles produced. 12.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Plan Vin.
Pungent nose: candied pear and lemon, wax, pastry with a hint of butterscotch and straw. Clean, rainwatery attack then swelling fruit and savour. Minerally and saline, with brisk acidity. Dry despite the ripe fruit. Quartzy finish. Unfortunately, our bottle wasn’t as fresh or pure as the one tasted a couple of weeks earlier at RASPIPAV’s Le printemps dézippé event. The delightful label takes its inspiration from the pun in the wine’s name, a play on Emmenez-moi au bout de la terre (take me to the end of the earth). Suggested food pairings: shellfish, lean fish, lemon chicken. (Buy again? Yes.)
Minervois 2011, L’Inattendu, Clos du Gravillas ($34.18, private import, 6 bottles/case)
A blend of organically farmed old-vine Grenache Blanc and Gris (80%) and Macabeu (aka Macabeo, 20%). Manually harvested. After pressing, the juice is clarified by cold settling. Fermented and matured for nine to 11 months on the lees in 500-litre Austrian oak barrels. 3,000 bottles produced. 14% ABV. Quebec agent: Plan Vin.
Complex nose: initially ash, then quartz, lily flower, white fruit and hints of burnt rubber and roasted poultry juices. In the mouth, multidimensional. Rich yet fluid, soft-textured yet acid-bright and minerally. A touch of honey flavours the lemony, applely fruit. Balanced and surprisingly fresh from start through the long finish. Memorable. As food parings, the winemaker suggests veal paprikash, white fish and cheeses. (Buy again? Done!)
VDP des Côtes du Brian 2012, Mademoiselle Lily, Clos du Gravillas ($25.64, private import, 12 bottles/case)
Organically farmed Viognier, Roussanne and Terret Gris. Manually harvested. Vinified and matured for 11 months in 500-litre Austrian oak barrels. 2,500 bottles produced. 13% ABV. Quebec agent: Plan Vin.
Lemon meringue pie, Lemon Pledge, rose, Lifesavers. Aromatic, even floral, in the mouth with a rich texture. While it doesn’t come across as bone dry, it remains fluid and bright, due largely to the crisp acidity. A welcome bitter note marks the finish. A bit bonbon to my palate but popular with several around the table, who said they would serve it as an aperitif or summer sipper. (Buy again? Maybe.)
Updated on June 10, 2014, with information provided by the winemaker.
MWG May 15th tasting (1/6): Pink of course
Corse Calvi rosé 2013, Fiumeseccu, Domaine Alzipratu ($22.80, private import, NLA)
A blend of saignée and directly pressed juice, mostly Sciacarello though a little Nielluccio may also have made its way into the mix. If memory serves, this is 13% ABV. Quebec agent: oenopole.
Effusive nose of pink grapefruit, nectarine, garrigue, cat pee and cotton candy. Clean, citrusy and peachy on the palate. The gush of ripe fruit is carried on a stream of acidity to a dry, savoury finish with a saline snap and a quartz aftertaste. While I thought it was true to form and therefore excellent, especially for the price, most around the table – including several longtime fans – were unconvinced. One taster in particular, who’d bought a case with a party in view, expressed disappointment and regret. Note, however, that she opened one of her bottles the following weekend and totally revised her opinion, declaring the wine classic and delicious (top sommeliers around town agree with that assessment). A QPR winner. (Buy again? Done!)
Patrimonio rosé 2012, Domaine d’E Croce, Yves Leccia ($24.80, 11900821)
100% Nielluccio. Manually harvested. Made from the same juice used for the estate’s red wines but bled off (saignée) after 12 hours’ maturation. Cold-settled for 12 hours, then fined. Fermented in stainless steel tanks at 18°C for 15 to 20 days. Malolactic fermentation is prevented. Matured six months in stainless steel tanks. 13.5% ABV. Quebec agent: Le Maître de Chai.
Compared with the Alzipratu, smoother, sweeter, rounder and grapier – redolent of peach, strawberry and watermelon with maquis overtones. Weightier too, though kept from heaviness by glowing acidity and a faint carbon dioxide tingle. The rainwater minerality turns saline on the long finish. Not light and refreshing enough to be a first choice for sipping on the deck or balcony. On the other hand, if you’re looking for something to serve with your aïoli monstre… (Buy again? Sure.)
Camerlengo’s 2010 Antelio
IGP Basilicata Rosso 2010, Antelio, Azienda Agricola Camerlengo ($25.90, 11951961)
100% Aglianico from organically farmed 30-year-old vines. Manually harvested. Fermented with native yeasts and macerated for 25 days. Matured in 50-hl Slavonian oak botte. Unfiltered and unfined. Lightly sulphured at bottling to increase stability during transportation. 13% ABV.
The faintest whiff of nail polish remover quickly blows off leaving a fragrant, savoury nose of pomegranate, black cherry, obsidian dust, sweet spice, cedar and tomato paste. In the mouth, it’s a middleweight. The silky fruit veils fine, drying tannins, generating a kind of tension between the fruit’s tart sweetness and the tannins’ astringency that lasts well into the dusky flint, plum and balsam-scented finish. A pleasure to drink now but even better in six to nine months. A perfect match for an Apulian-style lamb stew, of course, but food-friendly enough to work with grilled, roasted or pan-roasted white meat and fowl (go light on the tomato though). (Buy again? Unhesitatingly.)
Brett happens 